Afghan Snow: India’s First Homegrown Beauty Cream. Where Did It Go?

Last Updated:February 12, 2026, 12:12 IST

Afghan Snow, India’s first indigenous beauty cream, was more than cosmetics as it symbolised ‘swadeshi’ pride. Even its unique name has a fascinating origin story

In an era when promoting indigenous products was a matter of national pride, Afghan Snow stood as a symbol of Indian enterprise and self-reliance.

More than a century ago, India witnessed the launch of a remarkable indigenous skincare product: Afghan Snow. Introduced in 1919 by industrialist ES Patanwala, the cream quickly became a household name, selling exceptionally well across the country.

At a time when India was under British rule, and foreign goods dominated the market, Afghan Snow emerged as a proud ‘Made in India’ success story.

From Humble Beginnings To Industrial Pioneer

ES Patanwala’s journey is as compelling as the product he created. Born in a small village in Gujarat’s Kutch district, he moved to Bombay at a young age in search of opportunity.

With limited financial resources but a strong understanding of perfumes and herbs, he began experimenting with blends in a small shop in Mumbai’s Paydhuni area. There, he personally prepared perfumes and creams, slowly building a loyal customer base.

Scaling Up In Mumbai

As demand for Afghan Snow grew, Patanwala expanded production. His principal and most renowned factory was established in Byculla, then one of Mumbai’s major industrial hubs. Even today, landmarks such as Patanwala Marg and Patanwala Industrial Estate in Byculla reflect the brand’s historical footprint.

Over time, he set up additional manufacturing units in other parts of Maharashtra and on the outskirts of Mumbai.

His factory was considered technologically advanced for its era. Rather than relying on imported machinery, Patanwala prioritised developing local technology. The enterprise generated employment for thousands of Indians, contributing to economic self-reliance during British rule.

Notably, he boldly printed ‘Made in India’ on his cream jars at a time when foreign products were widely perceived as superior.

How Afghan Snow Got Its Name

The name ‘Afghan Snow’ has a fascinating origin. Patanwala presented a sample of his white cream to Afghanistan’s King Amanullah Khan. Impressed by its fragrance and smooth texture, the King reportedly remarked, “This is like the snow of Afghanistan”. The name stayed.

It is said that during the King’s visit to India in 1919, he met several young entrepreneurs in Bombay, including Ebrahim Sultanali Patanwala. Patanwala gifted him a basket of products, including an unnamed jar of white cream. The King’s comment inspired the brand name that would become iconic.

A Multipurpose Beauty Essential

Afghan Snow was marketed as a multipurpose cream, serving as a moisturiser, make-up base, and sunscreen. Over the years, it became a staple in Indian households.

Patanwala was also known for hosting grand balls and social gatherings in major Indian cities, attended by prominent personalities such as Nargis and Raj Kapoor. The brand sponsored India’s first Miss India pageant, held in Bombay in 1952.

Competing With Foreign Brands

At a time when British and other foreign creams dominated the Indian market, Afghan Snow stood out as the first Indian cream to compete directly with imported brands. By the mid-20th century, it was found in nearly every Indian home and was endorsed by leading actresses.

India’s first Miss India, Esther Victoria Abraham, along with actress Nutan, featured in its advertisements. The cream’s distinctive small glass bottle with its elegant label was regarded as premium packaging during that period.

Gradual Decline In The 1980s And 1990s

Despite its immense popularity, Afghan Snow gradually lost ground. During the 1980s and 1990s, major brands such as Hindustan Unilever and Lakmé dominated the market through aggressive marketing campaigns and updated product formulations. While newer brands invested heavily in television advertisements and vibrant promotional strategies, Afghan Snow retained its traditional image and limited marketing approach.

Although no longer widely visible, Afghan Snow has not completely disappeared. The product continues to be manufactured by ES Patanwala Private Limited, albeit with very limited availability.

Gandhi’s Approval During The Swadeshi Movement

Afghan Snow also earned praise from Mahatma Gandhi during the Swadeshi movement, as it was entirely vegetarian and free from animal fat.

In an era when promoting indigenous products was a matter of national pride, Afghan Snow stood as a symbol of Indian enterprise and self-reliance.